One tricky part was the constant current source IC (I have no idea what this really is) which has a heat sink on it and some really small connecting leads. I switched my soldering iron tip to the smaller point tip for this.
There are a few new parts not reflected in the instructions on the Tubelab website, but I found information on the DIYAudio forum about them. They are diodes for D3, D4, and an inrush current limitor in spot TR1. I attached these today, and then realized that the diodes were irrelevant because I'm not building this with the solid state rectifier. This would have required two other FRED diodes I'm leaving off. They were about $5 each and I figured I would rather start with just the tube rectifier and save a few bucks.I also added all the connectors that will later be used to attach the transformers, input signal, switches, etc. The only one I left off was the connector for the rectifier switch since I'm not using this.
Maurice (my cat) just now got up after about a 3 hour nap in the shoebox I'm using to hold some tools. Seriously, how does he fit into that? It's like me taking a nap in the clothes hamper.
I'm thinking about some next steps. I bought an Allied power transformer which came in the mail the other day and ordered two Edcors for the output transformers. I have a few pieces of wood to start thinking about the enclosure and need to get a piece of aluminum for the top. I also ordered a speaker repair kit from ebay to fix up my old Infinity Reference Two speakers that I bought 20 years ago and the woofer foam disintegrated. Hoping these might still be good to use, and prefer testing with them instead of my Klipsch floor standing speakers that are in the living room.
Tomorrow is my son's 8th birthday party and I have a cake to go decorate in the form of a Minecraft Creeper.
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| Finished board bottom |
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| Finished board top |
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